Stormy Seas

We made a quick trip over to Cancun last Friday. To stock up on a few things we needed for our doomed vacation. It was bright, sunny and hot over there. As usual.

About halfway back across to the island, I could see that there was some kind of storm going on over the island. Did not look good at all.





As we got closer, I spotted this sailboat. It was sailing in the only patch of sunlight to be seen. It was really weird and almost other worldly.

By the way, I did not see any begging iguanas at all at the customer waiting area of the Ultramar ferry. Maybe they knew a storm was coming and had all taken shelter.

I Have A Right To Complain

The weekend from Hell. That's what it felt like around here.

Because of the problems we have with break-ins, I have only mentioned to a very few people that we have been planning a big vacation. Since last March actually. We were to fly to Huatulco again for the month of September. I can not adequately explain how very much I was looking forward to that.

With the insolvency of Mexicana Airlines last Saturday, there went our tickets. We spent over six hours on Saturday getting our money refunded, trying to find alternative carriers or ways to get to Huatulco. It just wasn't happening. We finally bit the reality bullet and cancelled everything. The condo, the rental car and our plans for a good time.

Before anybody can say it, yes, there are buses that go there. If you want to sit on one for 23 hours. I surely don't. Or we could have flown to Mexico City, on to Oaxaca City, spent the night there and boarded a bus the next morning for the 8 hour trip down to the coast through the mountains. Then did the reverse at the end of the month. Not only do I not want to do that, but the cost of those tickets is almost equal to what my whole vacation budget would have been.

And...there are only 3 airlines that service the tiny airport in Huatulco. One was Mexicana (Click) and the other two leave from the United States. I am not going all the way to the United States just to get a flight back south again. And then reverse that too. Again, way too much money.

To keep myself from falling into depression over this, activity was on the agenda. I went upstairs and washed and swept down the entire second floor balcony. I think I sweated all of my frustrations out up there!

So, feeling just a bit despondent, we decided to go out for awhile Saturday night. No big deal, just get out of the house for a bit. As we passed by the Pointer, which is parked in the tuck under garage directly in front of the house, we noticed that the driver side door was ajar.

Yup, let's now raise the count to 15 times that we have been burglared or stolen from. I keep nothing in the Pointer because I don't lock the doors. It appears that the thief took off the cover for the fuse box and helped himself to 7 fuses. Of course, he did not slam the door shut or we would have heard him. He just kind of pushed it closed. I am forever flabbergasted at the balls and blatency that some of these thieves have. We could have walked out onto the porch at any time. Probably best that we didn't though.

So, anybody want to argue with me as whether or not I have a right to complain right now?

Featuring.....Bally Hoo

The battery on my Honda Beat scooter is dead. That's what happens when you leave it sit in the storage garage for three months without starting it. So what does that have to do with today's post?

Nothing really, except that that is how I "scoot" around the island with ease to take pictures for the blog. It is a bit difficult with the Tracker because I can't just go "Wow!" when something grabs my eye and pull over. Once I get the scooter running again, I will return to island pictures.

But for now, I have a series of restaurants, bars and other places I want to share with you.

Bally Hoo has been around for awhile. It is easily missed because of it's location. That is both a plus and for them, a minus. It is located directly behind the Pemex gas station on Rueda Medina, the street that runs along the bay side of the island. Look for the three palapas.





They have been known to people who live here for quite awhile. For some reason, they are never crowded. Pity. They don't play blaring music to drown out your conversation and the service, and atmosphere, is always pleasant.




They have recently added a new feature to their menu...breakfast. That is my favoritest meal to eat out. I am always on the look out for a new, good, reasonably priced breakfast place. As you can see from one of their signs, they are also famous locally for their tempura fish and chips. But I think I have found an even better place for that. Ah, another post!






The seating area under the palapa is actually a wooden deck built over the water. And there is always a breeze. The view to the left is more towards the downtown ferries.






I love that this is such an old place and it still contains the remnants of docks and piers gone by. The docks you see are still very much used by local fishermen, a few charter type boats and the little fishing pongas that bring over a tourist or two from Punta Sam or Puerto Juarez.





A view from the dining area looking back towards the street.

But, oh, the breakfast food!

This is a breakfast baguette omelet. Hot, delicious and crunchy crust bread.

A breakfast wrap. Almost big enough for two people.

Scrambled eggs. Your choice of bacon, ham or chorizo sausage. These have chorizo. Most orders come with a side of these HoJo potatoes. Again with the crunchiness and flavor. I dislike most beans. Which makes eating here a challenge sometimes. However, I do like the refried beans they serve here.

Most breakfast items run in the 45 to 65 peso range. ($3.75-5.45) Coffee is extra at 15 pesos a mug ($1.25) but it is bottomless.

They open at 5:30 AM so if you have to catch an early ferry to Cancun or the airport, this is a great place to grab something to eat first. I hope that if you are on the island, you give them a visit.

Featuring....Snackbar El Tico

Whenever B and I travel around Mexico, we always keep an eye out for those little out of the way places. The Mom and Pop place. The Hole in the Wall place. The Sense of Community Place. We like being elbow to elbow with the other customers, the owner, the bartender and whatever staff may be working. It is just a pleasant, friendly experience.

Finally, a place like that has opened here on the island.

Meet Snackbar El Tico.




This little place is on Matamoras Avenue, next to Bobo's Fish and Chips and across the street from Olivia's Restaurant. It is owned and run by Christopher. More commonly known by his friends as Tico. If you haven't guessed by the nickname, Tico is from Costa Rica. And, like most Costa Ricans, he speaks fluent English and has that sense of Pura Vida that is so prevalent in Costa Rica. It translates well to his new business.

Although his speciality of the house is michaladas and cheladas, he does have a full range of liquor. So if you want a Margarita, just ask!




Thanks to the Mrs., there are a few little homey touches around too. Like these bar top candelabras.




They look especially nice after dark when lit.




The centerpiece of the back wall is this colorful mirror. I would like to steal it!

But, the main event at Snackbar El Tico, happens on the weekends. That is when you get closest to the cantina feeling of the place. Order any kind of drink on Friday and get free ceviche de pescado. Do the same thing on Saturday and get ceviche de camaron. But, and this deserves a big drumroll, on Sundays you get chilpochole! Homemade fresh and hot that morning and delivered to your bowl.

Here's one of the helpers dishing some up for another hungry customer.

If you have never tried chilpochole, Sunday at Tico's is the time to lose your virginity with this dish. It is basically a spicy, red broth stew of fish, shrimp and crab. Delicious. A good one will be extra spicy since it is traditionally eaten as a hangover cure. Thus it always being on the menu on Sundays.

There is limited seating, but people are happy to stand against the wall, outside or anywhere there is space. Especially on Sundays. Although there are not too many tourists who frequent this place yet, they are starting to discover this little gem.

And the infamous Tico himself!

Given the tiny space they have to work in, the organization is excellent. Not a wasted piece of countertop anywhere.

I think Tico has every song ever recorded in both English and Spanish on his computer. When the place is really busy, the music is kept low and in the background. Never a need to shout over the music. However, once the place clears out a bit, Tico has a ball playing samples of all kinds of music for whomever is there.

Next time you are on the island, stop by. I think you will enjoy this place as much as we do. And be sure to tell him that Islagringo sent you!

Caught In The Sand

These are two of my favorite photos taken during my driving trip around Mexico in 2007.

Both were taken along the shores of the Sea of Cortez, in the southern Baja peninsula.

I love the stories that they tell......and don't tell!

Help Me Remember

When the latest burglar broke in and stole my computer, he also got everything stored on it. Maybe. If he ever got it turned on.

Strangely, he also took my backup CD that was sitting on it. I had put all my important documents on that disc. (insert heavy sigh)

One of the documents that is now lost to me is the list of contributors to the charity Project Warm Hearts. So I need your help.

If you have made any type of contribution to the charity this year, please send me an email with your name and, if you like, what your contribution was. Some of you I vividly remember but I do not want to miss thanking a single person on Christmas Day. Let me know at

islagringo@yahoo.com

Thank you.

Celebrating.....Part 2

It took a long time to walk the length of the malecon. It seemed that every person we knew was out and about Saturday night. Enjoying the warm night, the slight ocean breeze that wafted over the malecon and the party atmosphere. Little Isal was getting impatient with the grown up dawdling along and wanted to get the rides. I bought her a bag of churros (sort of a long doughnut) to appease her while we visited with people. Of course, I had to have one too!

We finally made it to the rides and she confidently strode towards the merry-go-round and hopped up onto the horse of her choice. I don't need any help, thank you very much. Just pay for my ticket and let's get this show on the road!




While she went round and round, up and down, and waved to her admirers, my attention was caught by the ride of the year.

I had ridden on this ride at the State Fair in Minnesota. Although severely tempted, I did not get on it here. I have seen the way they put these things together. (or not!)

I rode something similar to this in Minnesota also. I am a sucker for carnival rides. I vividly remember almost falling out of my seat on this one. No seat belts, just hang on. No thanks, not anymore.

Looking back at the some of the crowd and my favorite type of stall. The ones where they sell all the junk for exorbitant prices. Stuff that mostly appeals to kids or adolescent girls. Or elderly Gringos looking for stuff to buy his favorite six year old girlfriend!

She also went cruising in her off the road truck.

These kids were my favorites of the night though. Couldn't have been more than 2 or 3. Totally delighted and enamored by the steering wheel spun but didn't do anything.

All in all it was a very enjoyable night downtown.

Celebrating.....Part 1

August 17, 1850. That was the day that Isla Mujeres claims to have been officially founded. And this past weekend the whole island celebrated the 160th anniversary.



Saturday night we grabbed Carlos' new bride, Andrea, and her sister, the lovely Isal, and headed downtown to check things out. We had also promised Isal to take her to the carnival and a promise is a promise!

The bleachers at the downtown basketball court have received a new coat of paint. The optical illusion is very good. You can hardly tell that these are cement bleachers.



The stage erected on the town square was hopping as we arrived. I caught part of this dance troop from the side of the stage. They were performing a folk dance from Chihauhau at the time.



We worked our way around to the front. The troop had disappeared and were replaced by this single couple. Could they dance or what! I grew exhausted just watching that animated stepping they did.




I had to use extreme zoom to get that picture above. Otherwise, for those of us not able to get close to the stage, they had set up the giant TV screen again.





Next came dancers representing the state of Chiapas. Supposedly in native costume. I have been to Chiapas many times and spent some time there. I never saw a lady dressed like this. Maybe it is just a costume for festive occasions. Maybe they think we don't know any better.

I have seen this though. It is a highly choreographed dance number using machetes. I am amazed that they don't hurt each other, or themselves, swinging those things around. They also clang them together. Anybody who has been here recently during high season has probably seen this dance performed by a street dancer who visits from Chiapas.

Along the back wall they had constructed little houses, replicating the original wooden houses found on the island. A few of them are still standing downtown. Not many though. The most interesting one had pictures from the 1950's, 60's and 70's. Seeing what the beaches, downtown and the town square looked like back then was fascinating.

One building even had a replica boat in front. Of course, Isal had to pose for a picture in it!

Tomorrow we will stroll out onto the malecon (boardwalk) and have a look see at my favorite part of any festival....the carnival!

Well, Hello There!

We just missed catching a ferry to the island last week. Even though our taxi driver tried to prove to us that he had taken a course at the NASCAR driving school for taxis. The bad thing about arriving just in time to see the ferry pull away from the dock is having to sit around for 30 minutes waiting for the next one.

There is an outdoor dining/waiting area there so we pulled up a couple of chairs in the shade and proceeded to wait it out. As soon as the sound of chairs scraping on cement was heard, over to us rushed this guy.




Exhibiting no fear at all, he came right up to me. He was about 2.5 feet long. I have never seen an iguana so close to humans before. At least not voluntarily. Of course, he was looking for a hand out.

There are many iguanas over there but they mostly stay on the rocks. At least they never come onto the cement pads where people are. I think that maybe one too many tourists have been throwing french fries, potato chips or other goodies to these guys. This one has now learned that people = food. Not a good thing. It raises all kinds of concerns in my mind about feeding wild animals, their ability to survive on their own and the increase in aggressiveness.

What do you think about feeding iguanas at the ferry dock? Should a sign be put up? Should they install a fence to keep the iguanas on the rocks. Should they just ignore it?

A New Kid On The Block

There's a new place in town on Avenue Rueda Medina that I have been hearing good things about. So the other day we decided to check it out.

Introducing the new Island Cafe.



They have a little something for everybody. Specializing in scrumptious homemade sandwiches made to order. A la Subway, but with class. They also offer pizzas, snacks and (drumroll) homemade pastries!

I like their menu. It is bright and cheerful.



Inside is equally as bright, and even more importantly, it is easy to read. I didn't think the prices too outrageous either. Most sandwiches were in the 46 to 56 peso range. ($3.80-$4.70)

Plus, if you are an Island resident, you get a discount. Big whoop to that!



After you have told one of the pretty staff members which bread you want, what kind of cheese you want (they even have pepperjack!), what condiments you want on it and if it should be toasted or not, she sets to work making it right in front of you.




Everything in there looks clean and state of the art. But the best part is the giant array of pastries made in their own ovens. Take a look at these babies.

Cakes and pies were in a cooler so I apologize for the quality of these shots. But drool away anyway.

I will definately be giving these cinaminimonumum rolls a try.

And maybe an apple or mint pie too!

They also have a very good selection of beverages.

They are located almost directly across from the Pemex gas station. Just look for that and then cross the street. Can't miss it.

I heartily recommend this place and am very pleased that it has joined our choice of eateries here on the Island. I'll be back. So watch for me!